Issue 49: Cairo, Goodbye

One year later, leaving Egypt

This is the end of Zoe (technically) in Cairo, but fear not, dear reader, it’s not quite the end of “Zoe in Cairo.” We’re getting to one year (issue 52!) come hell or high water. So it’s true, I am ending my program a few weeks early. My next job starts at the end of August, so I’m taking the month to travel (locations to come :) ) and visit my home in Portland before settling back in to Washington, D.C.

So with that, I have officially departed from Egypt, for the last time, for the foreseeable future. This week was absolutely lovely, full of lots of lasts and goodbyes.

Goodbye Random Fancy Dinners and Rooftops

I started this week like I’d start any other: by picking a restaurant to go to with Sherif. Taking in the sights and sounds of Old Cairo as we moved from Mazeej to Carleton Rooftop, I was struck by the uncomfortable feeling of not knowing when I’d be back. I remembered my first night in Waset al Balad (downtown) and how overwhelming everything had seemed. Now, I breathed in the pandemonium. When people ask me what I’ll miss most, that is what I would say: the chaos. There’s nothing like an evening downtown. There’s no city that can compare.

Goodbye Endless Nights

Chaos is most exhibited in Cairo in starting a night where you have no idea how it will end. On Monday, I met Costa and Olautnji for dinner and ended up seven hours later talking with strangers deep into the night after closing down two additional places. Be loud enough in any restaurant or bar, and interesting people will find you.

Goodbye Feluccas

You aren’t a foreigner leaving Cairo if you don’t throw a goodbye felucca. Full moon, full sail, several bottles of wine, lovely conversations, all the people I will miss. I couldn’t have asked for a better sendoff.

Goodbye Work

Of course, Cairo wouldn’t be the same without my time working at the American University of Cairo. I wrapped up all my remaining stories, which was rather bittersweet. I’ve gotten to publish over 50 pieces in my year here, showing me that being a writer professionally is possible. I’ll forever be grateful. I had one last lunch with my office, in a mall in New Cairo, because where else?

Goodbye Friends

Au contraire to my wild Monday and Tuesday nights, I had a quiet Wednesday playing Catan and discussing what I will miss most about Cairo. The chaos, of course, the food (an unpopular opinion), the freedom, the history, the people.

Goodbye Nile

I had one wish for my final evening in Cairo, which was to do an item that’s been on my bucket list since last August: kayaking the Nile. I got to say goodbye to this storied river in a fitting way: by unintentionally getting drenched in it.

Cairo, Goodbye!

It’s been a wonderful, life-changing year (technically 49 weeks). This last week was every bit the lovely sendoff I was hoping for. While this is the end of chapter, I know that it won’t be goodbye forever. Cairo will always be here, waiting for me :)

Song of the Week:

1. Behind My Camel by the Police (because the camel is BEHIND ME)

Read of the Week:

1. Eurotrash by Christian Kracht (4 stars)

Food of the Week:

This week I’m gonna shout out my fridge for breaking, so I had to eat out for literally every meal. Had lots of tamaya and foul sandwiches! Not quite ready to say bye to those yet :,(

Friend Shout-Out:

This one goes out to everyone who has made my life in Cairo so incredibly lovely. I am honored by the community I was able to create here, another reason why I know this won’t be my last time in Egypt.